Dover, Kent May 2016

by Emma Bumpus on June 9, 2016

May bank holiday weekend salutes summer when careertraveller and family take to the White Cliffs Country of Dover, Deal and Sandwich to sample Kent’s renowned Garden of England.

Blue skies, shimmering coastline and layers of history are unveiled as we ascend Dover Castle, a 12th century fortress whose medieval stature evokes power, strength and drama across the centuries.

Original Napoleonic Secret Wartime Tunnels carved out of cliff-top chalk are a poignant exposure of Operation Dynamo and Britain’s rescue of allied troops from Dunkirk in 1940. Special visual and sound effects take us on an expressive journey of military defence and courage through a labyrinth of passageways that reveal an Underground Hospital. A real tribute to serving the troops during the Second World War.

Amidst the WWII weekend event of German firepower display, bebop jazz singers and RAF Spitfire aerobatics we are transported back to the 1940s where wartime rations, explosive battle and vintage lipstick and curls entertain and educate the whole family. Amongst Caen Normandy stone and Kentish ragstone walls we retrace Henry II’s world from his elaborate Kings Chamber to imposing Great Tower, whose generous East and West views encapsulate panoramic views of pure English coast and countryside. Spectacular!

Coastal wanderlust takes us on a trail of Walmer Beach Kite flying to the picturesque seaside town of Deal whose ‘Tudor Rose’ Deal Castle, unspoilt beaches and 1000ft long pier radiate summer, maritime adventure and English heritage. Pretty seafront cafes overlook pristine shingle beaches peppered with traditional fishing boats are nautical eye candy and an excuse to explore an array of quaint teashops!

Back on the road we discover rural villages with chocolate box cottages bursting with kaleidoscopic country gardens and verdant crops blooming with fresh local produce, not forgetting home to orchards and hop gardens! As we drive into Worth, a quaint hamlet with it’s charming village pond and Norman church we find paradise in the form of the Blue Pigeons Hotel, whose slate grey coloured exterior radiates a boutique contemporary feel that does not disappoint.

Inside is a stylishly renovated vicarage dating back to the 19th century, which with beams, slate fireplace and original wooden floors is tastefully offset by antique chic shabby furnishings that convey light and space up to our heavenly Room 1. Airy and sumptuous we enter a suite of calm luxury with four-poster bed whose crisp white Egyptian cotton sheets lovingly contrast soothing pale green cushions designed to relax amidst the countryside breeze that gently sways the high ceilinged snow-white cotton drapes. Elegantly modern with luxurious fabrics, separate seating area and twist of mod cons including 50-inch flat screen TV, we indulge this harmonious bridal suite come family room, whose subtle treats come in the form of nautical tissues and distinctive Duck Island bathroom pleasures.

Dinner in the Brasserie is a must with authentic red brick walls, pendant lighting and informally elegant tables, which delicately ornamented with purple irises, the symbol of love, and gypsophila make this a fine-looking venue for celebrations, weddings and all things special. A menu of fine local produce arrives in the form of pan-fried salmon fillet, which on a fertile mass of crushed potatoes, peas and salsa verde sets the careertraveller sail to Dover’s legendary White Cliffs, the symbol of Kent’s channel port with busiest shipping lane in the world!

Strolling the dramatic National Trust cliff top walk is a prairie – like trail of panoramic wildlife that presents itself in the grassland form of Exmoor ponies and butterflies to sky high peregrine falcons and seabird kittiwakes who breed amidst the chalky rare limestone cliffs. Rolling green hilltops sprayed with sunshine yellow flowers from wild cabbage and buttercup looking horseshoe vetch is a paradise of flora that wildly contrasts Dover’s dramatic past of invasion from the Romans to return of the British troops from Dunkirk.

Looking down from the cliffs awaits a treasure chest of English heritage that spans from the bronze age and Saxons to WWI and WWII to present at Dover Museum, which founded in 1836 is one of Kent’s oldest museums.

In the heart of Dover town stands this clever little haven of archaeological and historical facts and relics that include the 19th century avant-garde and exotic Cabinets of Wonder African Lion Head to giant Polar Bear. Brought back by intrepid explorer Dr Reginald Koettlitz in the 1894-7 Jackson-Harmsworth Artic expedition we discover the Victorian period of the exotic, educational and curious to internationally acclaimed Bronze Age Boat, the world’s oldest known seagoing boat! Inside the Bronze Age Boat Gallery lays a prehistoric boat, which allegedly over 3000 years old was found by construction workers nearby in 1992.

Feeling hungry and inspired we venture down to the De Bradelei Wharf for some maritime shopping and discover Cullins Yard, a quirky shipyard turned restaurant for some good old fashioned fish ‘n’ chips, the type that comes with mushy peas and a good locally brewed ale next door! Whilst inside is a tardis of nautical artefacts, outside is a handsome marina of alfresco leisure boasting nearby harbour and impressive promenade between clean shingle beaches and WWII memorials

As the evening sunset captures the Disney cruise ship departing for European shores we return home, but not without a breeze through Sandwich whose stunning Secret Gardens and encompassing medieval buildings mark Dover an intoxicating neighbourhood of sensational coast and country gems.

A farewell drink on the never-ending lawn at the Blue Pigeons Hotel is an evergreen finale to one of many future trips to Kent.

Further information:
Dover Tourist Board (official)
The Blue Pigeons
English Heritage Dover Castle
National Trust White Cliffs of Dover

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Wrest Park, Bedfordshire April 2016

by Emma Bumpus on May 4, 2016

St George’s Day takes careertraveller and family to Bedfordshire where knights, gladiators and medieval storytelling bring history alive in verdant parkland teeming with architectural eye candy!

Greeted by jesters, minstrels and glittering armour fit for dragon slaying we are engulfed in the park’s celebrated St George’s Festival, a plethora of Saxons, Normans and chain mailed soldiers preparing for combat. Meandering round the tents of the travelling War of The Roses Federation, a medieval group of re-enactors is an authentic insight to the middle ages which in 92 stunning acres of 18th century gardens echoes 2016 Year of The English Garden.

Beneath the sky-scraping trees that sway towards the banks of the romantic French style Orangery, once home to orange trees bought from King Louis Philippe of France, we inhale tree-lined paths and sweeping lawns sprinkled with picturesque statues, all 40! Prudently situated in wide-open spaces offering far-reaching vistas of the Bowling Green House we are swamped in history and a melee of Georgian falconry, 1066 battle drama and medieval jousting in an arena of pure English heritage.

As we pass Lady Jemima’s horse riding through the park we are spellbound by this event that entertains the whole family amidst the gunpowder, troubadours and medieval clad members who fascinate us with their woodturning, weaving and fire range cooking.

Every corner of this leafy green paradise presents living history through the ages, which built for pleasure, style and beauty presents a treasure trove of art and architecture dating back to 1042-66 and the de Grey family. Outside the Grade-I-listed Wrest House we step into the world of Thomas Earl de Grey, whose love of French and Italian architecture lives on with stunning French Parterre and Italian Gardens. Curvaceous, symmetrical and vividly ornamental flower displays bring joy to the kids who enjoy darting along the zigzag paths outside this imposing chateau like mansion, that once served as a military hospital and convalescent home during the First World War.

Inside is a sumptuous labyrinth of decorative rooms detailing ornate furnishings and family portraits that encircle an elegant entrance hall with beautifully positioned doors leading the eye vertically down to the spectacular canal named Long Water. Perfectly aligned amongst an orderly mass of woodland stands the 17th century Pavilion, which built by architect Thomas Archer introduces baroque architecture with rotunda views at the top of this former hunting house.

As we climb the three-floored spiral staircase beneath an illusory painted ceiling enhanced by Louis Hauduroy in trompe l’oeil, we capture 6 bay window views of the garden that continues our trail of monuments and abundant landscape. Whilst the kids revel is finding a woodland Dog’s Cemetery whose headstones date back to 1830, the adults discover the ‘Capability’Brown Column that commemorates the landscape gardener’s transformation of the gardens in 1758-60.

Ready for some gladiator action we retreat to the main arena but not without noting the elegantly arched Chinese Bridge and Temple, that add yet another dimension to the parkland that exhibits loving traces of 21st century conservation and revitalisation.

Amidst the sword fighting cheers of the crowds who anticipate the battle of St George versus The Dragon finale, Wrest Park remains a cultural oasis, a fertile wonderland and a magnificent backdrop for all things special and best of all, a great day out for the family.

Further information:

Wrest Park
Events at Wrest Park

English Heritage

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Audley End House & Gardens, Essex March 2016

by Emma Bumpus on April 6, 2016

Spring takes careertraveller and family to Essex where a skyline of architectural silhouettes and quintessential English Garden bring history alive.

Driving in to this treasured estate is a rather noble affair as we pass the stately Lion Gate and Lodge, whose Coade stone Howard Lion statue commemorates the barony of Sir John Griffin Griffin. It is here we step into a natural style landscape of green-fingered gardens with fairy-tale sweeping lawns, auspicious flowerbeds and majestic trees that accentuate Audley End House, a Jacobean mansion house that defines English heritage.

On the foundations of a 12th century Benedictine monastery ‘Walden Abbey’ we experience an Eastertide palette of daffodil yellow, serpentine blue and evergreen parkland that celebrates the work of landscape gardener Lancelot Brown, nicknamed ‘Capability’. Amidst verdant acres of of wide open park and woodland we encounter an artistic show of seasonal spring gardens bursting with new growth, colour and variety, the type that marks 2016 the 300th anniversary of Capability Brown and Year of The English Garden.

Strategically placed specimen trees provide a trail of statuesque and harmonious composition that leads the eye pleasantly around picturesque contours of rural Essex countryside. Cloud Hedge, shaped in the form clouds, is a heavenly textural mass of 200-year-old box and yew, which goliath in size cleverly shields the estate’s domestic offices.

Symmetrically poised stands the celebrated Cedar of Lebanon, which planted by ‘Capability’ in 1760, provides a timeless elegance with its delicate spreading shape. Complementary neighbour Lime Walk is a romantic path evocative of late spring lime scented lime trees that sway towards the eye-catching Adam Bridge. Beautifully designed by architect Robert Adam, 18th century stone curves offer soft light, texture and renowned “Capability’ vista of vistas that glides across the shimmering river Cam with serpentine lake and signature rolling hills. Stunning!

With gardens that beckon picnic and play we refresh at the Cart Yard Café and whilst the little one rides on the wooden horse we discover the house has it’s own Victorian Stable Yard with horses and groom who emerge from the Kitchen Garden. Entertaining, educational and functional stands a beautiful walled organic garden, another dimension to Audley End with lovingly restored Bothy, vine house and orchard boasting over 120 varieties of unusual East Anglian apples and fruit.

Capability’s fashionable use of art to heighten nature lives on with the Palladian Bridge, which designed by Robert Adam sits in a tranquil glade of 50 shades of green or Elysian Garden, careertraveller favourite. Garden after garden is a step into England’s story where the likes of Thomas Lord Audley converted the monastery into a house, which over centuries has entertained nobility and provided training headquarters of the Polish section of the Special Operations Executive during the Second World War.

Inside is an abundance of history that unfolds in the shape of opulent furnishings, private painting collection and artefacts depicting 18th, 19th and 20th century living. Service Wing areas of the 1880s present a Scullery, Pastry Larder and huge Kitchen where traditionally dressed maids prepare seasonal dishes of the Victorian era. The Wet and Dry Laundry with wooden washboards and mangles provides a stark contrast to the grand reception rooms and Saloon which takes centre stage for it’s huge informal space, large sofas and original 17th century ceiling panels teeming with sea creatures!

Audley End House is a palace of infinite culture wrapped up in lovingly restored relics and sophisticated interiors that unravel the pastimes and chronicles of the Braybrooke family. Two sky scraping libraries filled with gilt binding books and a drawing room displaying Canaletto’s famous Venetian scene The Bucintoro at the Molo on Ascension Day are the icing on the cake as we wander through the ground floor Adam Rooms detailing lavish gilding and fine neoclassical ceiling. Restored to their 1770s appearance we embrace formal 18th century living and admire the symmetrical pillars in the Dining Parlour whose clever design reveals a room within a room and a scene set for ladies who parade pre dinner.

Our tour ends on the second floor in the recently restored Nursery, a suite of rooms brimming with inventive toys that once entertained the eight children of the 3rd Lord Braybrooke and wife Lady Jane Cornwallis. Corner to corner is a gala of play and recreation with wooden rocking horse and original Doll’s House, a regency inspired masterpiece created by the children of the house. Sublime!

Audley End House and Gardens are a magical day out most worthy of a weekend break in Essex, can’t wait to return!

Further information:

Audley End House & Gardens

English Heritage

Visit Essex

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5 Balconi Bed & Breakfast Catania, Sicily

by Emma Bumpus on March 7, 2016

The vivacious streets of Catania boasting labyrinth alleyways beautified with elegant palazzos and sunbeam honey trap balconies unlock an azure-sky gateway to pure Sicilian adventure for careertraveller and family.

A plethora of sweet smelling shops brimming with everyday merchandise, cafes and pizzerias are authentically interrupted with the hubbub of Italian vespas, leading us fashionably to our palatial city break oasis.

Centrally located and just a 10-minute taxi ride from the airport we arrive outside our 18th century palazzo, whose wrought iron balconies ooze charm, history and grand hospitality. From the courtyard we take an elevator to the second floor and enter an elegant space of warmth, colour and tradition with subtle artefacts that hint we are in the land of Sicily.

Greeted by flamboyantly modern Sicilian tiles that flow infinitely below a grandiose high ceiling (all 5 metres), we observe the wall mounted 3 legged ‘Trinacria’, whose central medusa symbolises Sicily and begin our Sicilian experience. Hosts Rob and Cristina are a bilingual duo of English and Sicilian origin who bring a cultural zest to our stay, adding extra value to our B and B sojourn. Genteel and experienced, they provide a quick tour of amenities that include an espresso machine, guest fridge and impressive library of tourist information, the type that makes sightseeing effortless.

Whilst the kids explore this colourful and distinguished haven speckled with native Sicilian arts and crafts, including photographs and hand crochet tablecloths, the adults indulge a caffeine infused break on the balcony that offers sublime snow capped views of Mount Etna. Amidst the rooftops of Sicily’s second largest city, we study Catania, which set between the Ionian Sea and highest volcano in Europe, ripples with wanderlust history and adventure.

Our light and airy guest rooms are cleverly designed boudoirs with invitingly fresh pastel coloured walls that lead the eye tastefully towards chandeliers that hang prettily above sumptuous crisp white linen clad beds. Notably firm mattresses, built for those who appreciate heavenly slumber, defines a light and airy space where Catania’s sun infused rays bounce from the Il Padrino poster to encompassing chic old and new furnishings. From armoire and Venetian style dressing table to sangue red sofa, everything is stylishly placed, including the sweeping golden drape that skilfully masks the interconnecting rooms.

Breakfast is a celebration of colour, compassion and culture brimming with garden-fresh produce from the local food market. Freshly squeezed orange juice is a visceral trip through Etna’s mildly climatic orange groves that blossoms around the beautifully cured, salami, mortadella and careertraveller favourite ‘mafalda’, sesame encrusted ‘pane’. Baked traditionally in a wood-burning oven with Sicilian semolina flour, this crisp and nutty flavoured bread is an artisanal gateway to ‘la cucina siciliana’ that promotes the taste of travel.

On a journey of aromas we sample the exuberant historical centre by foot in 5 minutes and meet our guide Anna of LemonTour who provides an enlightening walk around Catania’s monuments. Piazza Del Duomo is a baroque nucleus of architectural delights with encompassing cafes buzzing with street life around the legendary Elephant Fountain, Catania’s good luck symbol. From the UNESCO world heritage St Agata Cathedral we trace the roots of Via Etna, Catania’s main cobblestoned street, which poignantly made with lava stone once lay in ruins after the 17th century earthquake.

Etna’s gaze remains focussed as we take the stone lava staircase next to the Carrara marble Amenano Fountain, which built by Italian Sculptor Tito Angelini in 1867 leads us through the famous fish market La Pescheria. Amidst this holy fish temple we discover the vibrant gastronomy of Catania that sparkles with ice displayed swordfish and silver pilchards in narrow streets simpatico of travellers. Fragrant eateries and overhead balconies lined with multi-coloured laundry are a contrast to the neighbouring Ursino Castle and Benedictine Monastery that hang in the shadow of Etna.

An escorted Etna Off Road tour is unmissable with a 4 x 4 jeep that captures all this volcano has to offer. Kids in tow, we traverse real ‘bucket list tour’ terrain that depicts tales of emotion and eruption across the centuries. Our ascent reveals a conflicting mix of lava flow destruction and renewal in the form of lava covered houses to trees showing signs of new growth. It is at the Southern slope Silvestri Craters that we experience moon-like volcanic scenery. Sublime!

In summary, energetic, ancient and passionate Catania is an alluring city crammed with flavours that command more than one bite. Our final 5 Balconi Bed & Breakfast breakfast is a dolce feast of feather light cornetti (croissants) filled with cioccolata and almond cream, beckoning a return trip. Look out Sicily!

Further information:

Details of 5 Balconi Bed & Breakfast can be found by clicking on their website 5 Balconi Bed & Breakfast

Further information about Lemon Tour excursions of Catania and Etna can be found on the link Lemon Tour

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Christmas spirit twinkles with London magic as careertraveller and family step into West End theatreland and applaud Raymond Briggs’s classic winter wonderland story of childhood dreams and adventure.

A step inside the Peacock Theatre is a colourful journey of culture and contemporary art form, the type that lures half a million people to see a performance at Sadler’s Wells theatres each year.

Instinctively born from a belief that ‘great art should belong to everybody’ we time travel back to the 20th century when Lilian Baylis, the so-called grandmother of national theatre, fundraised to rebuild Sadler’s Wells for all.

Inside the auditorium, a chain of charismatic international dance begins with an ingenious snow globe stage bursting with playful props that carry us across storyline mountains, as far as the North Pole! Snow capped trees and giant Christmas baubles fill the air with seasonal glee ready for a magical twist of ballet, swing and tango, the fluffy kind that rocks from the rafters!!

Through the eyes of a child we grasp a winter’s night tale that starts with an elevated bed encircled by show stopping snow whose flakes beckon orchestral play and fun filled comedy. A clever opening scene of a boy waking up to snow and rolling a snowball left to right stage brings snowman magic alive to a jam-packed audience of ecstatic families.

Whilst the snowman grows his character evolves from picture book to performance as Sadler’s Wells present the Birmingham Repertory Theatre production. A dazzling chocolate box assortment of characters unravels 105 minutes of sophisticated symphonic skill and dance which takes us to the sky and back!

Superb glittery ice lighting effects with frosty shades of ultraviolet lavender and indigo blue narrate this enchanting tale with graceful dance story choreography that floats upon composer and director Howard Blake’s legendary musical score.

Festive clad carol singers bring warmth and cheer against this this chilly polar backdrop, leading us skilfully indoors through a series of Brigg’s creative illustrations that capture the essence of childlike dreams and fantasy. Wonderfully executed sketches of snowman goings-on reveal sprightly eye-catching costumes performing comical acts of endearing friendship and cheeky antics from the kitchen to bedroom.

Generations of children fill the playhouse with laughter and smiles as surprising pieces of fruit, namely pineapple and coconut, display cleverly adapted dance routines of childish exploration. Madcap dressing up and furtive household play brings tuneful highs and lows, exposing short burst scenes of engaging prop and musical comedy teeming with snowman sentiment.

Hot and cold is a wacky ride on dad’s motorbike to a chill in the freezer where the showpiece “Walking in the Air” takes music and art on a flight through the sky. Written in 1982 by Blake for the animated film based on Briggs 1978 book, we watch this charming aerial act celebrate it’s 18th consecutive season at the Peacock Theatre.

Across the seas, the Arctic is an explosion of colour and diversity presenting Snowmen from Scotland to China with gleaming authentic costumes. From reindeers and toy soldier to captivating ice princess, energy and talent present a hand clapping show that makes Jack Frost heroic. Mesmerised by the variety of dancers and moves we swoon at the Fred Astaire Snowman, whose groove leaves an everlasting rhythm.

As Father Christmas delivers sleigh treasure we applaud the arts at Sadler’s Wells and smile in the knowledge that The Snowman lives on. Brilliant!

Further information:

Details of The Snowman performance and tickets can be found by clicking on the website Peacock Theatre.

General Information about Sadler’s Wells theatres and performances can be found on their website Sadler’s Wells.

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Palace life peaks as Careertraveller and family time travel seven centuries in the footsteps of royalty, celebrating 500 years of drama, romance, art and architectural extravagance.

Base Court is a cobbled courtyard story of medieval luxury, the type that once accommodated and entertained diplomats and court members in chambers furnished with fine silverware, fireplace and ensuite ‘garderobe’ or private toilet.

As we gaze upon this original geometric stone and red brick building we enter the Tudor age world of Cardinal Thomas Wolsey whose striking gothic windows and chimney clusters introduce this bishop’s palace purpose built for King Henry VIII.

Amongst a labyrinth of stone archways adorned with Roman faces the children revel in the palace’s second gateway Clock Court, a spacious piazza of a playground full of regal treasure. Beneath the stately pillars of Sir Christopher Wren’s baroque walkway we capture the king’s complex Astronomical Clock whose gilded dials shimmer with opulence and science.

As the great bell tolls above we seize traces of this late medieval manor house that stands testament to two palaces from Tudor to baroque and complete our courtyard journey in the final Fountain Court, a stunning three storey quarter of cloisters and royal apartments. A promenade below the arches provides a heroic display of mythical and classical stone-carved heads of creatures and gods including Hercules, who spins us sweetly towards the rather mysterious Chocolate Rooms.

Indulgent thoughts of hot chocolate made by personal chocolate maker Thomas Tosier for King George 1 (1714-1727) and George 11 (1727-1760) bring us into the Georgian era. Original 18th century fixtures display beautifully restored handcrafted chocolate serving equipment, which including chocolate porcelain cups re-created with surviving excavated remnants, brings the palace alive after 300 years!

Insatiable thoughts of cocoa lead ingeniously to the King’s back stairs where we continue our sugar fuelled trail up the majestic King’s Staircase, a decorative wrought iron balustrade that sweeps us into ceremonious art, history and baroque architecture. Each marble step unravels theatre-like views of Italian painter Antonio Verrio’s story of Alexander The Great and Julius who compete for a place with the gods, banqueting on the ceiling above!

Lashings of power, wealth and politics take us on a lavish adventure through William III’s State Apartments where of 17th and 18th century armoury in the Guard Chamber displays circa 3000 pistols, bayonets and swords booms with military antiquity.

Imposing portraits, chandeliers and tapestries, made for King Henry VIII present themselves in the form of The King’s Presence Chamber, a refined reception room fit for meetings to Great Bedchamber, an opulent private space brimming with ornate wood carvings and lofty painted ceiling.

Palatial and breathtaking, East Front takes centre stage with a central fountain that sparkles amidst the encompassing River Thames. Detail, beauty and nature engulf this special garden of England, which abundant with seasonal colour, wildlife and harmony reveals 16 gardens. With a dash of Capability Brown’s Great Vine to Henry VIII’s former hunting ground Home Park, we get lost amongst stretches of boulevard lime trees and look for 300 fallow deer and feel rather blessed to be here.

Hampton Court Palace is a magnificent warren of entertainment bursting with delectable secrets and surprises including winter ice-skating rink, whose West Front appearance brings a festive glamour to the palace celebrating it’s 500 year anniversary. An atmospheric glide upon the ice is a grand affair of history and fun all wrapped up in celebratory pre Christmas cheer, the type that deserves an après skate spice infused glass of mulled wine in the Ice Bar and Café!

As day becomes night neon lights accentuate the palace’s towers and turrets that sparkle with historical optimism beneath the stars. As the music plays we skate into the 21st century amongst the penguins and feel proud to slide in the footsteps of Olympic Gold medallist ice skater Robins Cousins MBE. Hampton Court Palace has it all!

Further information:
Historic Royal Palaces-Hampton Court Palace
Hampton Court Palace Ice Rink

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Margate, Kent October 2015

by Emma Bumpus on November 6, 2015

Autumn brings a coastal family trail of old and new treasure that opens the gates to a great British seaside pleasure dome that does Kent proud.

Greeted by golden Margate Main Sands we enter a world of international beachcross racing, traditional amusement arcades and distinguishing south-facing Margate Harbour Arm . It is from this sparkling hub of vibrant eateries, galleries and bronze sculpture Mrs Booth that we become acquainted with artist JMW Turner from this picturesque anchorage.

Guided by the seashore Viking Coastal Trail we uncover sunny bays bursting with Blue Flag Awarded beaches that beckon the likes of ice cream, bucket ‘n’ spade sandcastles, sea bathing and family friendly seafront promenade bars and cafes.

Lower promenade views introduce dramatic chalky cliffs, shimmering English Channel and impressively infinite Kent coastline, which all 350 miles long, radiates watersports, beachcombing and all things “holiday”.

Cliftonville transports us back to bygone times where past meets present with remnants of Margate’s 1920’s Lido, which reminiscent of fashionable alfresco marine pool and underground warm seawater baths echoes scenes of popular 1950s beauty pageants with deckchair bingo!

Amidst the Viking adventure playground, holiday developments and emergent art galleries we take a genteel upper promenade stroll past the verdant Winter Gardens, a flashback to the Edwardian period where high-class entertainment helped label Margate ‘London’s playground’. Concert Hall to theatre this pavilion erupts with history, echoing performances by Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy in 1947 to The Beatles in 1963.

Walpole Bay, careertraveller favourite, smacks of unspoilt sandy beach and 1930s character with Grade II Listed open-air seawater bathing pool that continues to revive, rejuvenate and treat locals, day-trippers and holidaymakers galore.

Up above the cliffs in Fifth Avenue is the pièce de résistance Walpole Bay Hotel, an alluring titanic architectural jewel that oozes period charisma, romance and a love that vibrates outside in. From the resplendent garden infused veranda with old-fashioned wrought iron posts and Edwardian marble monochrome floor tiles through to Museum and Napery Art Gallery, nothing is too much for guests seeking pure vintage class and relaxation.

Top to bottom is an imaginative labyrinth of period artefacts and artwork that chronicles the hotel’s lifespan. 20th Century history unfolds with three floors of vintage relics that awaken the senses with original Maid’s Scullery, epoch costumes and lashings of Art Deco influence. Corridors of art reveal famous napkins that feature guest impressions and affectionate hotel memoirs, the type that charms them back year after year.

Each one weaves a thread of theatrical curiosity that soars to third floor heaven where luxury and glamour heighten in the form of Hair and Makeup Salon, home to avant-garde award-winning hairdresser, Jerome Hillion. Boldly ‘Parisian boudoir’ and stage-like is a parlour to please, which offering high-end one to one services suggests Walpole is a film in the making. Sublime!

Back inside the hotel’s original 1920s Otis trellis elevator is a golden age journey down to Reception, which revels in period paraphernalia. Careertraveller darlings are mahogany grandfather clock; chaise longue and endearing 1930s valise brimming with hotel archives.

Whilst beautifully preserved guest records laced with red ribbon take us back to 1914 when the hotel was first built, stellar hospitality comes in the form of hotelier and proprietor Jane Bishop whose entrepreneurial journey tributes tender teenage jaunts to Walpole Bay in the 1960s. Jane recalls how her lifelong nostalgia for the hotel, which closed in 1989, led her and her husband to buy and restore this iconic building in 1995 as part of a joint 25th silver anniversary wedding present/project. Remarkable!

Twenty years on, Walpole Bay Hotel shines as a 21st century beacon that epitomises pure inspiration and reflects a current renaissance of Margate’s classic seaside heritage that sparkles with vitality and redevelopment. Freshly upgraded bedrooms boasting contemporary makeovers still echo times of a bygone era with framed samples of original 1920s wallpaper and Cast Iron Tiled fireplaces, oozing elegance, style and extravagance.

Tastefully exuberant and educated we saunter round the Edwardian Restaurant in admiration of local artwork and pieces by artist Tracey Emin, which situated stylishly near the pianist heightens traditional Sunday lunch and vintage Walpole Cream Tea with full flavoursome home cooked love like no other.

Walpole leaves it’s mark with a final Magical Margate walk around the town’s historical centre that offers distinctive gems from Shell Grotto, a 4.6 million-shell enigma to seafront shelter Nayland Rock Promenade Shelter. As we perch upon this eminent Grade II Listed late- Victorian /Edwardian haven overlooking Margate Main Sands, we people watch in the eyes of author TS Eliot who used the 20th century literary hide as a coastal convalescent backdrop for his famous poem “The Waste Land”.

From the Victorian Police cells of Margate Museum to seafront Turner Contemporary, a prominent UK art gallery that celebrates artist JMW Turner’s love of this British coastal haven, it becomes clear that Margate is a creative art magnet. Dotted with independent shops, new businesses and Georgian, Regency and Victorian architecture in the shape of Love Lane we retrace the cobbled steps of the artist who spent his school years here.

Dreamland Pleasure Park, or ‘Hall By The Sea’ is a helter skelter slide of unadulterated retro fun bursting with pinball and space invaders to good old-fashioned fairground rides, including newly restored Grade II Listed Scenic Railway, Britain’s oldest surviving rollercoaster. Rebuilt and partly repaired with original timber that lovingly encircles the park is a testament to Margate’s community who supported it’s revival after 12 years of closure to the public.

Thanks to private and public investment from Thanet District Council, Heritage Lottery Fund and Department of Media and Sport’s Sea Change Fund, Margate’s seaside playground is re-energised and brimming with sea spray entertainment.

In a snapshot, Margate is one giant rollercoaster of culture, coast and cool rejuvenation that has lots to look forward to.

Further information:

Walpole Bay Hotel
Dreamland
Margate Museum
Shell Grotto
Turner Contemporary

Details of Margate can be found on the official tourist information website Visit Thanet.

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Journey to The Isle of Mull, Scotland August 2015

by Emma Bumpus on August 28, 2015

Snow-white fleecy clouds that dance amongst a panoramic palette of blue and green hues are a cinematic introduction to the Hebrides, the type that lures careertraveller and family to a unique island adventure.

Glasgow Queen Street Station activates our highland railway quest, but not before a sighting of the famous replica ‘Kelpies’, sculptures that proudly tribute Scotland’s past equine heritage, which in the words of sculptor Andy Scott represent ‘the powerhouses of the early industrial revolution, the tractors of early agriculture”.

Platform 7 radiates west highland charm with our ScotRail chariot, which promising an auspicious itinerary of tantalising glens, lochs and rich fertile green terrain, reveals 3 hours and 20 minutes of Glasgow- Oban movie-making scenery. Glittering waterfalls amidst tiers of mountainous peaks and fells bring a star like quality to rail travel and nomadic window gazing as we journey through the Scottish Rockies!

Traversing Greater Glasgow to Argyll and Bute pinewoods reveals an intoxicating mass of mixed woodland beauties including oak, Hazel, Birch and Scots Pine native conifers, where timber, wildlife and landscape unite Scotland as a land of quality trees, woods and forests.

Crianlarich, recently voted the most scenic railway in the world, marks the crossroads to the famous West Highland Way and ramps up our lowlands to northwest highlands journey under towering mountains Ben More and Glen Falloch. Sensational!

Oban railway station is a rapturous Atlantic Ocean vista with it’s quaint bustling harbour and colourful buildings that sparkle with seafood and flocks of tourists. As our Hebridean Caledonian MacBrayne goddess of a ferry (commonly known as CalMac) docks, we board this majestic vessel whose regal exterior exudes mystery island appeal and set sail for the unknown.

On board is an informal and unexpected 45-minute Oban-Craignure cruise-like crossing that manages to mix the best of atmospheric misty mountains on deck with inside Observation Lounge, The Still offering whisky tastings and Mariners Cafeteria boasting more than 50% local Scottish produce. From Argyll smoked salmon to artisan Island Bakery organic shortbread biscuits, Calmac justifiably celebrate Scotland’s Year of Food and Drink 2015 ‘Taste our Best’ award.

Craignure is a jubilant welcome of Highland Mull and Iona Pipers amidst flocks of travellers, day-trippers, island hoppers and holidaymakers seeking the “full monty” wild Scotland intimacy. Ashore brings rocky coastline, verdant mountains and a planet of clouds in the restless air that shapes our interest in the natural world.

A hop on the island’s Tobermory Topper eastern route exposes diverse wildlife and rugged wilderness from the top of a double decker bus, where shipwrecks and clear diving water shimmers in the shelter of the Sound of Mull Atlantic.

Baliscate is a surprise of craft workshops, pottery and Tobermory Fish Company smokehouse, where cold smoking smacks of Scottish tradition and pure Highland taste.

Across the road awaits Gamekeeper’s Cottage, our luxury island haven that purrs with airy, contemporary rooms watching tranquil sea and grassy hilltop panorama. Mod con touches à la bathroom underfloor heating, sumptuous bed linen (the feather down kind) amongst family friendly Wi-Fi and colour TV’s make this 4 star awarded pad a superior nest from which to explore, regenerate and relax amongst the elements!

A scenic 10-minute walk down to the island’s capital Tobermory is a rainbow of multi coloured buildings brimming with treasure that sparkles with island craft handmade jewellery, customary cold press essential oils soap and a bakery whose homemade bread and pastries bring food alive. Thanks to fish, this pretty little harbour is a thriving community of fresh local produce, from home made chocolate shop and cheese farm to commercial whisky distillery, one of Scotland’s oldest.

Variety presents itself in the form of Indian and Chinese restaurants, waterfront fish n’ chip van and renowned Café Fish and Galleon Grill that specialise in seafood and steak. Sprinkled between a smidgen of pubs and hotels, including the delectable boutique Tobermory Hotel whose tartan carpets and nautical inspired rooms exude Highland tradition, we discover Scottish flavours steeped in labour and love.

Across the lobster pot lined pier, that once welcomed Queen Victoria and Mendelssohn, is a romance of bobbing boats that extend across the Ardnamurchan Peninsula which peacefully harbours munro Ben Hiant, all 528 metres high.

Dewy mountain air brings a restlessness that calls for some Mother Nature exploration on sea and land, aka Surf & Turf Cruise with the award winning Sea Life Surveys. Time evaporates as we board the Bold Ranger, where intact with skipper and guide we dig deep into the world of cetaceans and geology. An intoxicating sail past the famous Sput Dubh waterfall uncovers craggy rocks that play refuge to goose-sized shags in search of oceanic molluscs and crustaceans.

Our sea safari is a voyage of sea faring cormorants and bottlenose dolphins that flip and splash with a natural grace, that leaves the hot chocolate simmering below on deck! Surf becomes turf with a fun rowing boat jaunt to the Glengorm Castle estate where volcanic crater rocks house common seals who lounge beautifully as nature intended. Wildlife guide Stephanie escorts us on a flora and fauna trail of sheep grazed meadows strewn with meadowsweet, bracken and bog myrtle, which amongst highland cattle and Neolithic standing stones puts Glengorm Castle firmly on the careertraveller map.

Homeward bound we board the wondrous CalMac ferry and seize Duart Castle, recognising that Mull is a journey, the epitome of nature and a reason to travel.

Further information:
ScotRail
Caledonian MacBrayne
Island Holiday Cottages
Sea Life Surveys
Glengorm Castle

Duart Castle

Further details of Mull can be found on the official national tourist information website Visit Scotland.

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48 Hours in Liverpool, Merseyside July 2015

by Emma Bumpus on August 6, 2015

July delivers a plethora of art, music and welcoming liverpudlian pride as careertraveller and family take to the energetic streets of this Merseyside mecca, naturally named European Capital of Culture in 2008.

From the city’s oldest and largest railway Liverpool Lime Street Station beneath a glittering elegant nineteenth century glass and cast iron curved roof, we take a 5 minute va-va-voom taxi ride to Albert Dock, the city’s stunning world heritage waterfront. Imposing UNESCO red brick renovated warehouses stand proud with romantic archways and Grade 1 listed columns that entertain the most fashionable assortment of eateries, boutiques and surrounding attractions.

Originally built to accommodate sailing ships back in 1839 this stylish regenerated metropolis is a testament to British architect and engineer Jesse Hartley, who added 10 miles of quayside to the dock estate and ingeniously changed the landscape of Liverpool.

Awash with maritime charm and pier front eye candy, Liverpool’s charm and history is seized on the fourth floor of the Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Albert Dock, a trendy converted warehouse hotel, like no other in the UK! Contemporary and airy with all mod cons and centrepiece window view of the River Mersey, Museum of Liverpool and architectural gems Three Graces. Drenched in light beneath impressive restored cast iron girders we bathe in light that beckons a 10-minute stroll to the Liverpool Pier Head ferry terminal.

Greeted by the extraordinary Dazzle Ferry, aka ‘Snowdrop’ or Mersey Ferries Dazzle Ship (the UK’s only operational vessel), we embark on a 50 minute Explorer Cruise that brings a nautical twist of art and dockland history across the centuries. Designed by British artist Sir Peter Blake, we discover this moving piece of patterned artwork decorated with 800 litres of paint tributes WW1 artists who used dazzle paint to camouflage British ships from German U-boats.

Amidst the seafaring colour and monochrome optical art we ferry across the Mersey, all 70 miles, and admire the Merseyside riverside, which recounts tales of merchants, industrialisation and city landmarks. An on-board display of dazzle ships curated by Merseyside Maritime Museum and Tate Liverpool is a celebration of the arts and insight to the city’s rich cultural heritage, justifiably named the top UK city and third in the world for people to visit in 2014 by travel bible Rough Guides.

Back at the bustling Liverpool Pier Head, an £8 million landing stage reopened in 2012, we drift into Merseybeat wanderlust and slip into the dockside Beatles Story museum that smacks of 1960’s music, memorabilia and Fab Four history.

Built for ultimate experience we enter a tardis of full on family fun, imagination and sophisticated 4D special effects in the form of Fab4D, a 3D computer generated simulation inside a state of the art cinema. Moving seats, drops of water and air spray to the sounds of Beatles music with psychedelic animation, depicting lyrical scenes on a Beatlemania rollercoaster ticket to ride!

The careertraveller favourite; Beatles Hidden Gallery is a black and white photographic blast of 1963-1964 rock and roll reminiscence, exposing 38 inimitable Beatle moments and emotions by photographer Paul Berriff.

Back at the Albert Dock Beatles Story Discovery Zone the kids revel in playing authentic vinyl records in a mock 1950s record store in between playing Beatles tunes on a giant interactive piano. Funky and educational, it is little wonder Liverpool Council has awarded the zone a Blue Badge for learning outside the classroom.

Expectations of Liverpool explode with breakfast at the Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Albert Dock, a breath-taking choice of dockside vista or imposing riverside Wheel of Liverpool and 10,600 seat Echo Arena and Convention Centre.

Brunch is a Magical Mystery Tour that delves into the lives of the Beatles with a 2 hour round trip of the stars’ childhood homes, birthplaces, schools and meaningful places that shaped their musical careers and personal lives. Our excursion begins with the arrival of a poignant yellow submarine-like coach that echoes the Fab Four’s lyrical journey with pit stops including Penny Lane, an everyday place in the lives of Paul McCartney, John Lennon and George Harrison.

From Ringoland, officially Toxteth, we uncover the once home of Ringo Starr, who recalls his early years in the album Liverpool 8, to the celebrated Strawberry Field, a favourite bolthole of John Lennon in his younger days. Outside the original gate of this former Victorian Salvation Army Children’s Home we uncover evocative lyrics, heartfelt memories and roots of Liverpool’s renowned music scene.

A canny stop at the Cavern Club completes the tour with full-blown Beatlemania wanderlust. Live music booms from this grotto of charismatic soul, with hip souvenirs from the swinging sixties to 1999 when Paul McCartney performed his last gig. Amidst low ceiling arches and graffiti adorned walls bursting with rock and roll images of the The Rolling Stones and Queen, we lunch with the stars and enter an era of music that crosses generations. Sublime!

Liverpool surpasses all expectations with no ordinary Afternoon Tea at the Hard Days Night Hotel, the World’s only Beatles inspired hotel. Suspended replica music sheets above the lobby alongside graceful stairwells beautified with Beatles photographs, sets the scene for a luxuriously unique experience.

A live lounge, 2 bars and contemporary Blakes Restaurant, decorated with Fab Four Sgt Peppers album influences from Einstein to Martin Luther King, narrates an artistic account of their musical journey via paintings, pictures, even guitar shaped table in the uber cool McCartney suite!

Bar Four redefines glamour with leather armchairs, Italian marble cocktail bar and psychedelic oil paintings by international artist Paul Ygartua, who befriended John Lennon at Liverpool Art College. No detail is spared in this cosmopolitan Grade II listed building, which dating back to 1884 exudes design, play and imagination with a clever twist of the classic versus quirky!

Summer Cooler Afternoon Tea in the Lounge and Bar is a regal selection of beautifully cut finger sandwiches that sit poised prettily amongst a luxurious collection of cakes and delectable warm scones. The finishing touch is the ‘drum roll’ Beatles inspired grass infused vodka Strawberry Fields with Wild Pepper cocktail, which shaken with lemon thyme and strawberries excites the palette with a crack of black pepper.

Extraordinary, visionary and stimulating, Hard Days Night Hotel carries Liverpool into the 21st century with a subtle nostalgic razzmatazz, the kind that makes a return visit inevitable, Liverpool rocks!

Further information:

Details of Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Albert Dock can be found by clicking on the hotel’s website Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Albert Dock.

Information about all attractions visited can be found on the links below:
Mersey Ferries
The Beatles Story
The Magical Mystery Tour

Hard Days Night Hotel can be found by clicking on the hotel’s website Hard Days Night Hotel.

Official tourist information can be found on the website Visit Liverpool.

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Summer twinkles with London magnetism as careertraveller steps foot into the verdant Terrace of this majestic five star beauty of sophistication, history and traditional Westminster glamour.

A five-minute walk from Embankment tube station sets the scene for a balmy midsummer evening of clandestine treats, the kind one expects from a previous MI5 and MI6 British Secret Services headquarters. Built in 1884 this Grade II Listed building is an architectural treasure packed with WW11 memoirs of famous politicians, including Sir Winston Churchill.

A wander through this French château-like lobby is a voyage through opulent high ceiling rooms boasting crystal chandeliers and afternoon tea. A further splash of unexpected desirability reveals itself in the chic form of One Twenty One Two, the hotel’s two AA Rosette restaurant, whose name commemorates former neighbour, Scotland Yard, with legendary telephone number, Whitehall 1212.

Final destination ‘paradise’ reveals itself in the form of alfresco chocolate-box terraces, which ornamented with cosy wicker sofas amidst sprays of cottage garden flowers, makes way for a countryside outing of food from brunch to evening.

A gentle Thames breeze draws attention to bespoke views of the neighbouring London Eye, which sparkling above the rooftops of central London, delivers an enchanting soiree, perfect for a riverside picnic. From the hotel’s Summer Chapter Two of ‘The Terrace’ magic and luxury bubble ravenously in the form of a Summer Picnic Hamper bursting with genuine British handcrafted choice.

Aesthetically pleased taste buds revel between an exquisite garden fresh selection of charcuterie and cheese that execute a textural feast of award winning treats. Hampshire Barkham Blue and Snowdonia Black Bomber cheese are a salivating journey epitomising fine ingredients, the creamy and buttery kind!

A mouth-watering fiesta of velvety hummus with pumpernickel, silky soft cream cheese stuffed peppers and glossy balsamic onions are a gastronomic symphony of the senses that sit appetizingly on quaint gingham tablecloths. Traditional picnic celery sticks with white/ black grapes and an apple and port chutney are a smorgasbord liaison of black pepper pastrami, Parma harm and salami Milano that elevate to sweet picnic heaven!

The Careertraveller favourite, Hotel Chocolat ‘White Chocolate Blondies’ appear perfectly formed, chilled and wonderfully laced with rum, mint and lime, bringing summer garden party panache to the word ‘picnic’. Delectable!

As afternoon becomes evening, a sample of the hotel’s Chapter Three of ‘The Terrace’ brings a desirable Taittinger Champagne third dimension to the veranda. Pretty mini matching hamper canapés brimming with sweet and savoury zing complement a champagne trio of Pinot Noir and chardonnay delicacy for the “independently minded”.

From the Taittinger vineyards, all 288 hectares in the heart of Reims to Westminster in London, stands proud the Royal Horseguards Hotel, an elegant oasis of sweet summer tradition, the type that sweeps one of the ground with salacious plump berries.

An aromatic glass of wild strawberry and raspberry infused Taittinger Prestige Rose brings an urban sunset to the Terrace, the perfect setting for a sip of mellow Taittinger Nocturne Sec or rather ‘Champagne After Dark’. As for Chapter Four of ‘The Terrace’, look out for the Wimbledon Picnic Hamper!

Further information:

Details of the The Royal Horseguards Hotel and how to get there can be found by clicking on the hotel’s website The Royal Horseguards Hotel.

Further information about the hotel’s Terrace and festive celebrations can be found on the Terrace at The Royal Horseguards Hotel website.

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